Larry Johnson's Buckhead Auto Repair Center ASE.Mechanics

Close to: Dunwoody, Sandy Springs, Roswell, Decatur  & Midtown Atlana
RETURN TO BUCKHEAD ATLANTA AUTO REPAIR

Jaguar Head Gasket, Jaguar Valve, Jaguar Valve Cover Gasket:
Audi Engine Repairs - Engine Knock - Low Oil Pressure - Mercedes BMW Chrysler Jeep | Lexus, Jaguar, Land Rover, Toyota, Honda, GM, Ford and Lincoln - Servicing vehicles for residents of Atlanta, Sandy Springs Smyrna, Decatur, Scottdale, Marietta, Avondale Estates, Clarkston Mableton, Tucker, Stone Mountain, Austell, Norcross, and Pine Lake.  Larry Johnson's Buckhead Auto Center is top-flight experienced in balancing, diagnostic analysis, emissions, general inspections, loaner cars, major repairs, minor oil lube, abs anti lock brakes, catalytic converters, computer system, obd2, cooling, drivetrain, electrical, engines, fuel, hydraulics, ignition, mufflers, exhaust, steering, suspension, shock absorbers, transmissions, radiator flush, towing, tune ups, warranties, welding, wheel alignment, and while you wait wiring 

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Jaguar: The History of a Great Car*
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From Larry Johnson | Atlanta Auto Repair of Buckhead
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One of the world's most well known luxury cars, Jaguar had its beginnings in an inauspicious way. The company itself was actually begun as a motorcycle sidecar company. It was founded on September 4, 1922 in Blackpool, England as the Swallow Side car company by two motorcycle enthusiasts, William Lyons and William Walmsley.

The Swallow Sidecar Company changed its name to the Swallow Sidecar and Coachbuilding Company in 1926. That same year it produced its first car called the Austin Seven. A rather Spartan design, the car was a moderate success and allowed the company to move to a larger manufacturing facility. The next big venture for the company was the production of the SS1, which had a Standard six-cylinder engine and a modified Standard chassis.

The SS1 had a long low look with a short passenger compartment, wire wheels and a luggage boot with a spare tire on the back. The SS1 had an expensive look but was quite affordably priced and sold well.

The company became SS Cars Ltd in 1933 and William Lyons, one of the original founders became the managing director, buying out his partner, William Walmsley, in 1936.

The name Jaguar was not actually used until 1935 and the first productions for the company included limousines, convertibles and sports cars. The fastest pre war Jaguar was the SS100, which gained speeds of 100 mph. The Jaguar SS100 truly began to make a name for itself by winning such races as the Marne Grand Pix of Reims, the Alpine Rally, the RAC Rally and the Villa Real International. The most famous event, the one that really put Jaguar on the map however was when it took the Monte Carlo Rally that same year.

During World War II, as with most manufacturing companies, the company shifted to assist the war effort. Once World War II had ended, the company changed its name once again and was for the first time, know as Jaguar Cars LTD.

The first true Jaguar sports car was developed in 1946 by William Lyons himself. It had been inspired by the BMW 328. This new Jaguar sported a six-cylinder x2 OHC engine with 3442cc. However, the introduction of the XK120 would push Jaguar to the top of the mountain of luxury sports cars. The car had a body shell that had also been inspired by a BMW vehicle. However, Lyons would give the new XK120 a dual overhead camshaft and a 3.5-liter hemi head six-cylinder engine. This engine had been designed by William Heynes, Walter Hassan and Claude Bailey during the many long nights during World War II when the three had been on fire watch together. The XK120 was so well received by consumers that the model would stay in production until 1954.

During the fifties and sixties, Jaguar gained a reputation for producing luxury and sports vehicles however; it had boxed itself into a corner. The problem faced by Jaguar was twofold: the first of these was that it only produced high-end cars so any shrinking of the world economy could trigger a recession that had the potential to devastate Jaguar. The second problem entailed the fact that Jaguar sold very few cars at home. It had a mostly international market base and this left Jaguar vulnerable to the whims of foreign government.

Jaguar badly needed to open up a home market and with this in mind developed the Jaguar MK1. The successor to this had the desired effect and was a lower cost base model that appealed to a wider audience and the home market loved it.

Jaguar would continue to enjoy success until 1972 when its founder, Sir William Lyons retired after 50 years at the helm. Confusion would ensue in the coming years and after being, sold time again would finally find some stability as a part of the Chrysler Corporation. 


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*Source: Ronnie Tanner
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Areas: AvondaleEstates, Buckhead, Clarkston, Decatur, Mableton, Marietta, Norcross, Scottdale,Smyrna, Tucker 
Categories: Autos | Repair  &  Service | Auto Repairs | Brake Service | Transmissions
Larry Johnson's Atlanta Auto Repair Center of Buckhead services vehicle owners primarily in these zip codes - 3032630324 30309 30363 30327 30342 30376 30359 30329 30306 30332 30319 30318 30322 30308 31141 
3114531146 30339 30333 30313 30307 30379 30369 30303 39901 30361 31106 31107 31126 31131 31139 
31156 31192 31193  31195 31196 30334 30301 30302 30325 30343 30347 30348 30353 30355

Close to: Dunwoody, Sandy Springs, Roswell, Decatur  & Midtown Atlana
RETURN TO BUCKHEAD ATLANTA AUTO REPAIR

Dodge Head Gasket, Honda Valve, Volvo Valve Cover Gasket:
Audi Engine Repairs - Engine Knock - Low Oil Pressure - Mercedes BMW Chrysler Jeep | Lexus, Jaguar, Land Rover, Toyota, Honda, GM, Ford and Lincoln - Servicing vehicles for residents of Atlanta, Sandy Springs Smyrna, Decatur, Scottdale, Marietta, Avondale Estates, Clarkston Mableton, Tucker, Stone Mountain, Austell, Norcross, and Pine Lake.  Larry Johnson's Buckhead Auto Center is top-flight experienced in balancing, diagnostic analysis, emissions, general inspections, loaner cars, major repairs, minor oil lube, abs anti lock brakes, catalytic converters, computer system, obd2, cooling, drivetrain, electrical, engines, fuel, hydraulics, ignition, mufflers, exhaust, steering, suspension, shock absorbers, transmissions, radiator flush, towing, tune ups, warranties, welding, wheel alignment, and while you wait wiring 

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Auto Car Radiator Repair and Troubleshooting*
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Larry Johnson | Buckhead Atlanta Auto Repair Center
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Just like human beings, the car needs to dissipate heat in order to avoid overheating and exhaustion. During combustion, the engine produces large amount of heat—about 4,000 degrees Fahrenheit. This is too much for the engine to bear so a cooling system is needed to keep it at a normal temperature. Cars usually overheat due to a damaged part in the cooling system, especially the radiator, the heart of the cooling system. It is therefore necessary that all its auto parts must be in proper working condition to ensure that the whole system works efficiently.

Aside from the radiator, the cooling system is composed water pump, freeze plugs, head gasket, thermostat, hoses, heater core, fan clutch and radiator fan. All these auto parts have special roles to perform thus the absence of one could significantly affect the whole cooling process and of course, the engine's performance. Take for example the hose, this may seem to be just an ordinary part but once broken, the coolant can escape and so it's no longer possible for the system to cool the engine. Even just the cap of the radiator is important. It holds the pressure in the cooing system; thereby, affects its stability.


How does the radiator cooling system work?
The coolant, which is a mixture of anti-freeze and water, is the one that absorbs the heat from the engine. It is drawn by the water pump from the radiator and is pumped through engine block and the cylinder head to absorb the heat from the engine and its parts. It goes back to the receiving tank of the radiator through the radiator hose. The radiator has tubes that contain large amount of water and has fin area to allow outside air to pass through. As the coolant spreads over the top of the radiator tubes, it transfers heat to the air.

The performance of your car is greatly dependent on your cooling system. No matter how gutsy its engine is, it can't work normally without a cooling system. The engine can even be inutile in an instant if it overheats and all other auto parts under the hood can also be damaged. They could melt as the engine burns the fuel inside the combustion chamber and the pistons in the cylinder could expand extremely that they can no longer move to complete the whole process in the engine.

Your car can possibly overheat as well. Engine overheating is one of the most common problems auto users encounter. You can avoid this by adding water to your radiator. So if you notice a problem on a particular part in your cooling system, consult the best auto mechanic in town. But if you think the problem is worst, you may as well replace it right away.

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Source:Terry_Brown
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Areas: Avondale Estates, Buckhead, Clarkston, Decatur, Mableton, Marietta, Norcross, Scottdale, Smyrna, Tucker  Categories: Autos | Repair&Service | Auto Repairs | Brake Service | Transmissions

Larry Johnson's Atlanta Auto Repair Center of Buckhead services vehicle owners primarily in this zip codes - 30326 30324 30309 30363 30327 30342 30376 30359 30329 30306 30332 30319 30318 30322 30308 31141 31145 31146 30339 30333 30313 30307 30379 30369 30303 39901 30361 31106 31107 31126 31131 31139 31150 31156 31192 31193  31195 31196 30334 30301 30302 30325 30343 30347 30348 30353 30355

Close to: Dunwoody, Sandy Springs, Roswell, Decatur  & Midtown Atlanta
RETURN TO BUCKHEAD ATLANTA AUTO REPAIR

Jaguar Head Gasket, Jaguar Valve, Jaguar Valve Cover Gasket:
Jaguar Engine Repairs - Engine Knock - Low Oil Pressure - Mercedes BMW Chrysler Jeep | Lexus, Jaguar, Land Rover, Toyota, Honda, GM, Ford and Lincoln - Servicing vehicles for residents of Atlanta, Sandy Springs Smyrna, Decatur, Scottdale, Marietta, Avondale Estates, Clarkston Mableton, Tucker, Stone Mountain, Austell, Norcross, and Pine Lake.  Larry Johnson's Buckhead Auto Center is top-flight experienced in balancing, diagnostic analysis, emissions, general inspections, loaner cars, major repairs, minor oil lube, abs anti lock brakes, catalytic converters, computer system, obd2, cooling, drivetrain, electrical, engines, fuel, hydraulics, ignition, mufflers, exhaust, steering, suspension, shock absorbers, transmissions, radiator flush, towing, tune ups, warranties, welding, wheel alignment, and while you wait wiring 

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Jaguar E-Type Brake Pads Replacement Tip*
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Larry Johnson | Buckhead Atlanta Auto Repair Center
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The handbrake pads on a Jaguar E-Type are located within the rear subframe and operate on the top of the discs. While this makes access difficult it is quite possible to change the brake pads without removing the subframe, saving considerable cost/time if you know how to do it. Most of the job is relatively straightforward and the only part where access can makes things difficult is the refitting of the retractor plate designed to pull the calipers apart when the brakes are released. This too can be achieved without too much effort with the right approach. These instructions apply to all 6 cylinder models fitted with self-adjusting handbrakes which is all but the very early models. They are a supplement to the instructions in the Jaguar Workshop Manual.

The image shows the forward side of the subframe with a rear footbrake caliper in the middle and the front of the differential casing in the background at the bottom left. The handbrake calipers are attached to the footbrake calipers by means of two pivot bolts. These bolts also hold the retractor plate in position with its two tines which reach across to the two caliper halves.

The process is as follows:

1. Remove split pin and clevis pin linking the operating lever to the handbrake linkage.

2. Fold down the locking tabs and remove the 7/16" pivot bolts, lock tab and retractor plate.

3. Push the caliper over the top of the disc towards the back of the car. The caliper can be withdrawn from the subframe through the centre opening at the back of the subframe.

4. Loosen the 5/16" nuts clamping the pads to the carriers - there is just enough space between the reinforcing ribs to swing a 12 point ring spanner. In the unlikely event that the clamp bolts aren't badly rusted you can then slide the old pads out with the aid of some tapping. It is more likely you will be completely removing the bolts and replacing these at the same time.

5. Fit the new pads taking care to mount them the correct way round - the triangular edge upwards and the chamfer towards the adjuster bolt which links the two caliper halves.

6. You will now find that there is not enough clearance between the pads for the disk and you will need to reset the self-adjusting mechanism. Simply hold one of the caliper halves and rotate the other anti-clockwise to unscrew the adjuster until the inner faces of the pads are 12 mm apart.

7. Now you're ready to reinsert the calipers. Push them back in and around the top of the disk the way they came out.

8. Line the retractor plate up with the two mounting holes, place the locking tab on top and insert the pivot bolts into the holes hopefully finding the holes in the handbrake calipers with some judicious wiggling. Gently tighten them but not fully as you will probably be taking them back out.

9. This is where the problem occurs. In all probability the tines of the retractor plate won't line up with the holes in the top of the calipers. If the subframe is off the car this is not a problem but with the subframe on there is no way you can get anything in there to bend the tines to get them in the holes. But don't despair. Get an inspection mirror such as dentists use and take a close look to see in which direction each tine is out and by how far. Make a note of this, unscrew the pivot bolts and take the retractor plate back out. Bend the tines according to your estimates and then reinsert. You may have to do this a couple of times but once you have it right you will be able to reach in over the tines with a screwdriver and push them down into the holes.

10. Now you can tighten the pivot bolts properly and push up the locking tabs.

11. Pull the operating lever repeatedly until the ratchet of the self-adjusting mechanism stops clicking.

12. Refit the clevis pin linking the operating lever to the handbrake linkage and fit a new split pin.

13. Adjust the handbrake according to the manual as necessary.

That will do it.  And remember us at Buckhead Auto Center.  Why pay dealer prices?

*Source: Simon Denman

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Areas: Avondale Estates, Buckhead, Clarkston, Decatur, Mableton, Marietta, Norcross, Scottdale, Smyrna, Tucker  Categories: Autos | Repair&Service | Auto Repairs | Brake Service | Transmissions

Larry Johnson's Atlanta Auto Repair Center of Buckhead services vehicle owners primarily in this zip codes - 30326 30324 30309 30363 30327 30342 30376 30359 30329 30306 30332 30319 30318 30322 30308 31141 31145 31146 30339 30333 30313 30307 30379 30369 30303 39901 30361 31106 31107 31126 31131 31139 31150 31156 31192 31193  31195 31196 30334 30301 30302 30325 30343 30347 30348 30353 30355

Close to: Dunwoody, Sandy Springs, Roswell, Decatur  & Midtown Atlanta
RETURN TO BUCKHEAD ATLANTA AUTO REPAIR

Mercedes Head Gasket, Mercedes Valve, Mercedes Valve Cover Gasket:
Mercedes Engine Repairs - Engine Knock - Low Oil Pressure - Mercedes BMW Chrysler Jeep | Lexus, Jaguar, Land Rover, Toyota, Honda, GM, Ford and Lincoln - Servicing vehicles for residents of Atlanta, Sandy Springs Smyrna, Decatur, Scottdale, Marietta, Avondale Estates, Clarkston Mableton, Tucker, Stone Mountain, Austell, Norcross, and Pine Lake.  Larry Johnson's Buckhead Auto Center is top-flight experienced in balancing, diagnostic analysis, emissions, general inspections, loaner cars, major repairs, minor oil lube, abs anti lock brakes, catalytic converters, computer system, obd2, cooling, drivetrain, electrical, engines, fuel, hydraulics, ignition, mufflers, exhaust, steering, suspension, shock absorbers, transmissions, radiator flush, towing, tune ups, warranties, welding, wheel alignment, and while you wait wiring 

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Auto Car Wheel Alignment (and balancing)*
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Larry Johnson | Buckhead Atlanta Auto Repair Center
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Motorists are luckier nowadays for having millions of choicesof top quality replacement auto parts. Maintaining a vehicle, upgrading it or even modifying it has never been easier than it is today. Every auto part is virtually available for a common car user who wants to work on his own vehicle. Whether he wants to improve its safety features, enhance its gas mileage and fuel efficiency or upgrade its style, he can do it with ease and convenience through these available replacement auto parts.

As we all know the wheels are the closest car parts to the road so they must be kept in excellent form and condition as much as possible. They also significantly affect handling and ride quality so they must be properly taken cared of. Moreover, the wheels lend the vehicle a more stylish look and thus, they too can make the car a lot more fun to drive.

However, every auto user must not only concern himself with the quality of the parts he is purhasing but also on how he is going to install the parts to his vehicle. In installing the wheels, proper wheel alignment is important so as not to sacrifice the tire's life and hence, the car's ride and handling.

Often times, wheel alignment is confused with wheel balancing; the two, however are two different terms. Wheel alignment consists of adjusting the angles of the car wheels so that they are perpendicular to the road or the ground and are parallell to each other.

Improper alignment of the wheels result to excessive tire wear, steering and tracking problems so make sure you check your car wheels' proper alignment before you hit your hot new car wheels from to the road.

Areas: Avondale Estates, Buckhead, Clarkston, Decatur, Mableton, Marietta, Norcross, Scottdale, 

Smyrna, Tucker  Categories: Autos | Repair&Service | Auto Repairs | Brake Service | Transmissions

 Atlanta Auto Repair Center of Buckhead services vehicle owners primarily in these zip codes - 
30326 30324 30309 30363 30327 30342 30376 30359 30329 30306 30332 30319 30318 30322 30308 31141

31145 31146 30339 30333 30313 30307 30379 30369 30303 39901 30361 31106 31107 31126 31131 31139

31150 31156 31192 31193  31195 31196 30334 30301 30302 30325 30343 30347 30348 30353 30355

Close to: Dunwoody, Sandy Springs, Roswell, Decatur  & Midtown Atlanta
RETURN TO BUCKHEAD ATLANTA AUTO REPAIR

Mercedes Head Gasket, Mercedes Valve, Mercedes Valve Cover Gasket:
Mercedes Engine Repairs - Engine Knock - Low Oil Pressure - Mercedes BMW Chrysler Jeep | Lexus, Jaguar, Land Rover, Toyota, Honda, GM, Ford and Lincoln - Servicing vehicles for residents of Atlanta, Sandy Springs Smyrna, Decatur, Scottdale, Marietta, Avondale Estates, Clarkston Mableton, Tucker, Stone Mountain, Austell, Norcross, and Pine Lake.  Larry Johnson's Buckhead Auto Center is top-flight experienced in balancing, diagnostic analysis, emissions, general inspections, loaner cars, major repairs, minor oil lube, abs anti lock brakes, catalytic converters, computer system, obd2, cooling, drivetrain, electrical, engines, fuel, hydraulics, ignition, mufflers, exhaust, steering, suspension, shock absorbers, transmissions, radiator flush, towing, tune ups, warranties, welding, wheel alignment, and while you wait wiring 

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Car Repair... But Diagnostics and Troubleshooting First*
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Larry Johnson | Buckhead Atlanta Auto Repair Center
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Several years ago, I was chasing an elusive miss at idle on a Chrysler minivan. The miss was just barely noticeable at idle, and cleared up as soon as the throttle began to open. I checked the fuel system, I checked the ignition system, and finally started looking at the engine's mechanical health.

A vacuum gauge reading on the Chrysler showed me nothing, so it was time to test compression on this transverse V6. Sure enough, the rear bank, front cylinder tested a little low. My next step was a cylinder leakdown test, and I then confirmed that the exhaust valve on that cylinder was leaking...just enough to cause the idle misfire.

The Chrysler problem was twofold. First, I didn't test that possibility early in my diagnostic process and wasted a lot of precious time, hoping I'd find the problem in something easier. Second, the compression and leakdown tests were time consuming...many transverse engine designs aren't exactly the easiest when it comes to accessing that rear bank. Luckily, this vehicle was low mileage and still under factory warranty, so the customer didn't have to pay for it.

But what if he did? Could I justify the 2 hours plus it takes to perform these tests if they had proven to be OK? Then I learned I could quickly perform a relative compression test with digital storage oscilloscope (DSO), and in a matter of minutes, not hours.

Now, this is one of the first tests I perform when diagnosing driveability issues. I want to quickly eliminate the possibility that an engine mechanical failure is the cause of the problem.

Relative Compression and Starter Draw

The first method I ever learned involves starter draw. Think about it a minute...it takes current to turn over the starter and the more resistance to turning the starter has to deal with, the higher the current draw will be. We all learned as young technicians how to measure starter draw when testing that system, but when this test is powered by a scope, with its ability to graph the current while adjusting the time base, it allows us to see the impact of each cylinder on that current draw.

To perform this test, use your high amp clamp around the positive battery cable leading to the starter. Fire up your scope, and adjust the time base to 100ms per division. (You can make finer adjustments to clarify the pattern). Make sure the battery is strong and disable the fuel and/or ignition system to prevent the engine from starting, just as you would if you were performing a regular compression test.

My scope of choice is a PICO 3443. With it's ability to record, I can go back and review the pattern starting from the beginning. On my older UEI scope, the pattern wasn't as clear and would disappear from the screen if I tried to adjust the voltage divisions to make it clearer. That, however, is easily corrected by using the AC coupling feature on your scope. By removing the DC component, only the pattern remains...centered in your screen.

Remember, I'm looking at the relative amount of current that each cylinder is requiring to overcome the compression pressure and turn over. I don't really care about how much the current is...what I'm looking for is any "peaks" that are lower than the others. If I find one, I can then use my synch to trigger off of cylinder #1, then use the firing order to identify exactly which cylinder is at fault. In my experience, I can easily pick up on a compression variation of as little as 10% with this method.

But it is relative to all the cylinders. If there is a mechanical issue resulting in an equal loss to all, the pattern will look normal. However, this is a rare occurrence and the vacuum test would show this as a lowered intake manifold vacuum.

Close to: Dunwoody, Sandy Springs, Roswell, Decatur  & Midtown Atlanta
RETURN TO BUCKHEAD ATLANTA AUTO REPAIR

BMW Head Gasket, BMW Valve, BMW Valve Cover Gasket:
BMW Engine Repairs - Engine Knock - Low Oil Pressure - Mercedes BMW Chrysler Jeep | Lexus, Jaguar, Land Rover, Toyota, Honda, GM, Ford and Lincoln - Servicing vehicles for residents of Marietta, Avondale Estates, Clarkston Mableton, Tucker, Stone Mountain, Austell, Norcross, and Pine Lake.  Larry Johnson's Buckhead Auto Center is top-flight experienced in balancing, diagnostic analysis, emissions, general inspections, loaner cars, converters, computer system, obd2, cooling, drivetrain, electrical, engines, fuel, hydraulics, ignition, mufflers, exhaust, steering, suspension, shock absorbers, transmissions, radiator flush, towing, tune ups, warranties, welding, wheel alignment, and while you wait wiring

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BMW Mechanical Repair  &  Troubleshooting*

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Larry Johnson | Buckhead Atlanta Auto Repair Center
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Oil pressure light flickering? Engine knock? Both? Major repair problem or minor annoyance? Either way, you should always quickly investigate the source before it becomes an even bigger problem.

Oil pressure - or more precisely the lack of it - in certain parts of your BMW's engine can become a major repair nightmare. All engines lose a certain amount of oil pressure over time as normal wear increases bearing clearances. But unusually low oil pressure in an engine, regardless of mileage, is often an indication that something is seriously wrong and requires immediate repairs.

That "tappet" noise may be only one sticking lifter but it may also indicate an oil flow problem that will eventually cause damage to at least one valve.

A flickering oil light is more difficult to troubleshoot if your engine is not obviously in need of major repair work.

Modern engines with hydraulic lifters, tight tolerance bearings and miniature oil filters require conscientious monitoring of oil pressure.

The following diagnostic tips (excerpted from "Troubleshooting Low Oil Pressure", Underhood Service, 10/97) will help you determine whether you have a major repair problem or just a minor annoyance.

BMW Oil Pressure Diagnostic Tips

A good place to start your diagnosis of a low pressure condition is at the dipstick. Check the oil to see that it's at the proper level (not low nor overfilled). If low, the engine may be burning or leaking oil. Adding oil may temporarily remedy the low pressure condition, but unless the level is properly maintained, the problem may recur.

If the engine is leaking oil, try new gaskets or seals to fix the leak. If the engine is burning oil, the valve guides and seals are most likely worn, but the rings and cylinders might be bad, too. A wet compression test and/or leakdown test will tell you if it's the valve guides or rings and cylinders that are worn.

The least expensive fix in the case of worn guides is to install new valve guide seals (if possible) without pulling the head.

The best fix is to pull the heads and have the guides lined, knurled, replaced or reamed for oversized valve stems. Worn rings and cylinders would call for a complete overhaul.

Also note the condition of the oil and make sure it's the correct viscosity for your BMW and climate.

Heavier viscosities, such as 20W-50, straight 30W or 40W, may help maintain good pressure in hot weather but are too thick for cold weather driving and may cause start-up lubrication problems - especially in overhead cam engines.

Light viscosities, on the other hand, such as straight 10W or 5W-20, may improve cold weather starting and lubrication but may be too thin in hot weather driving to maintain good pressure.

That's why most car and OE parts manufacturers recommend 5W-30 in modern engines for year-round driving.

If the level is okay, the next thing to check would probably be the pressure sending unit. Disconnect the unit and check the warning lamp or gauge reading.

If the warning light remains on with the sending unit disconnected, there's probably a short to ground in the warning lamp circuit. Likewise, if there's no change in a gauge reading, the problem is in the instrumentation, not the engine.

Bad sending units are quite common, so many mechanics replace the unit without checking anything else to see if that cures the problem. This approach might save time, but it's risky because unless you measure pressure directly with a gauge attached to the engine, you have no way of knowing if pressure is within specifications or not.

Most warning lamps won't come on until pressure is dangerously low (less than four or five pounds). So don't assume the absence of a warning lamp means pressure is okay, especially if the engine is making any valve or bearing noise.

If a check of pressure reveals unusually low readings, check the filter. It's possible the filter might be plugged with gunk. Replace the filter and see if that makes a difference.

The next step is to drop the oil pan and check the oil pump pickup screen. If the screen is clogged with debris, you've found the problem. Also, check to see that the pickup tube is properly mounted and positioned, is firmly attached to the pump (no leaks) and is not obstructed.

If the pump is mounted inside the crankcase, the next step might be to remove and inspect the pump. Open the pump cover and measure clearances. Also, check for scoring or other damage. A broken pump drive would tell you something entered and jammed the pump. If the pump is worn or damaged, replacement is your only option.

If the pump appears to be okay, the next step is to measure the rod and main bearing clearances. Check the clearances on the main bearing closest to the pump (this has the greatest effect on pressure) and clearances on the furthest rod bearing (this will show the greatest wear).

If the bearings are worn, they need to be replaced. But before you do so, carefully inspect and measure the crankshaft journals to check for wear, scoring, out-of-round and taper. If the journals need attention, the crank will also have to be reground or replaced.

Other diagnostic checks might include camshaft end play and/or pulling a valve cover or the intake manifold to check the cam bearings and lifters.

Remember, excessive clearances or leaks anywhere in the engine's oil supply system can contribute to low pressure.

Once you've identified and repaired discovered problems, your final check is to start the engine and make sure pressure is within BMW specifications. Use a mechanical pressure gauge and don't rely on the dash gauge or the warning light to verify that the repairs you've made have eliminated your problem.

*Source : Autohausaz.com

Close to: Clarkston, Scottdale, Dunwoody, Sandy Springs, Roswell, Decatur  & Midtown Atlanta
RETURN TO BUCKHEAD ATLANTA AUTO REPAIR

BMW Head Gasket, BMW Valve, BMW Valve Cover Gasket:
BMW Engine Repairs - Engine Knock - Low Oil Pressure - Mercedes BMW Chrysler Jeep | Lexus, Jaguar, Land Rover, Toyota, Honda, GM, Ford and Lincoln - Servicing vehicles for residents of Atlanta, Sandy Springs Smyrna, Decatur, Scottdale, Marietta, Avondale Estates, Clarkston Mableton, Tucker, Stone Mountain, Austell, Norcross, and Pine Lake.  Larry Johnson's Buckhead Auto Center is top-flight experienced in balancing, diagnostic analysis, emissions, general inspections, loaner cars, converters, computer system, obd2, cooling, drivetrain, electrical, engines, fuel, hydraulics, ignition, mufflers, exhaust, steering, suspension, shock absorbers, transmissions, radiator flush, towing, tune ups, warranties, welding, wheel alignment, and while you wait wiring 
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BMW Electrical Repair  &  Troubleshooting*
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Larry Johnson | Buckhead Atlanta Auto Repair Center
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Today's auto electrical systems are getting more intricate and are stressing the limits of current technology but they are basically the same design as 30 years ago. What can today's do-it-yourselfer do to keep from being electrically-challenged in the middle of nowhere? A quick overview of your BMW's electrical system would be a good start. The major components of your BMW's electrical system are explained below, along with some troubleshooting tips.

Your BMW Battery

The battery is a storage device, currently 12 volts, used to start the engine and help operate the electrical accessories installed on your BMW. The battery consists of six cells of stacked positive and negative lead plates, separated by insulators and immersed in electrolyte, which is a water and sulfuric acid mixture. Each of the six cells "produces" 2.1 volts for a total of 12.6 volts (although it's actually stored energy, not produced).

The chemical reaction created between the lead plates and the electrolyte creates dangerous, explosive gases that vent through the battery cover vents. Care should always be taken when charging or jump starting low batteries and whenever working under the hood of the car. Always keep the battery clean to allow proper ventilation.

Some batteries use a gel to replace the electrolyte for a somewhat safer battery and the use of "maintenance-free" batteries has eliminated the need for refilling the electrolyte. However, all batteries lose charging capacity over time through the loss of the electrolyte, deterioration of the plates and chemical breakdown of the connections.

Low fluid level; battery should be replaced

Before replacing any battery due to a failure, have the battery and the car's electrical system tested for proper functioning. Replacing a dead battery only to have another a few weeks later due to a weak alternator or a parasitic drain on the system is not only frustrating but can be expensive and dangerous as well.

An average battery should last 3-5 years in average climates but those in high heat or extreme cold areas may last only 2-3 years. The replacement battery should always have the same or higher CCA rating (cold cranking amps) as the original and be of the same or compatible "group size" to fit the battery tray and cable connections.
Your BMW Alternator

The BMW alternator produces electricity used to maintain battery storage charge and to help run all the electrical accessories, including the ignition and the engine control systems. It is belt-driven by the engine and produces an alternating current (AC), which is converted internally to 12 volts direct current (DC) by the diode bridge or rectifiers.

Contrary to popular belief, a BMW alternator does not constantly produce electricity. It cycles on and off as demand goes up and down. The battery buffers it from the electrical demands of the car, and it only works enough to maintain system voltage. At peak efficiency and for longest life, the alternator should be charging no more than about 50% of the time.

However, with the demands placed on the system by heat and by extraneous electrical devices (i.e., high powered stereos, running lights, etc. - see Power Demand Chart below), the alternator and battery are stressed even further. The average BMW alternator now is lucky to last 3-4 years, which is why a prematurely dead battery may actually be caused by a dead alternator.

Understanding the importance of having an operational warning light for the alternator (idiot light) is crucial to catching problems early. In most modern systems, the electrical current passing through the filament of the warning light is what energizes a circuit in the alternator to start charging.

This signal light is linked directly to the alternator through its terminal (#1, I, L, D+, etc. depending on the brand) and functions slightly differently on different manufacturers.

To check the warning light circuit, turn the ignition switch to the "on" position without cranking or starting the engine; if the idiot light does not come on, remove the plug from the alternator and ground the wire that terminates to the #1, I, L or D+ terminal (depending on manufacturer). If the light comes on, the wiring is okay but the alternator is defective; if the light still does not come on, the wiring to the light circuit and the bulb should be checked.

Don't forget to check the fuse that controls the light circuit, too. This fuse could be labeled differently in various cars. It could be labeled "charging", "regulator", "meters", "gauges" or "engine". In some cars, if the fuse is out, the idiot light will come on but may not go off. In others (like GM), a burned out fuse may make the warning light work in reverse order; that is, when the key is on, the light is off but as soon as the engine starts and the alternator starts charging, the light will come on.

Checking out these simple circuits first can greatly reduce your troubleshooting time and unnecessary replacement of your alternator.

As we delve further into charge light indicators, we find that in some cases it is normal for the charge indicator light to come on when nothing is wrong with the alternator.

According to information published by GM, any car may have a low voltage reading or lights that dim when electrical loads are heavy at idle. Furthermore, this condition is normal and no repairs should be attempted unless a fault has been found.

For clarification, as a car idles for extended periods of time during high heat conditions, a number of things happen that contribute to "lowered" alternator output that coincides with physics and the design of the alternator:

1.  As heat within the alternator increases, the electrical resistance in the alternator also increases, which reduces the alternator's charging capacity.

2.  As temperature rises, the voltage setpoint of the regulator is lowered to reduce the chance of overcharging or "boiling" the battery.

3.  Newer designed alternators have a "delay/soft start" built into the regulator circuit. This delays the load being placed upon the engine when starting up from a stop, so that the smaller engines in use today are not loaded down upon acceleration due to charging demands. This can delay the charging by up to 15 seconds.

With the alternator's capacity for charging reduced by heat and other factors, an alternator may only be able to produce up to 70% of its rated output under these conditions. So an alternator rated for 100 amps may only be able to produce 70 amps when hot at idle when there is 77 or more amps of demand on it.

A thorough diagnosis is always the best route to determining whether or not the alternator is at fault, but there are times when diagnosis time is short and you still need a positive identification of the problem. Cases like this require a foolproof tool to speed things up. In the case of Delco CS series alternators, there is a tool available from Kent-Moore tools (J-41450-B), which isolates the alternator from the car's wiring harness and lets you see if the alternator is at fault or if there is a wiring problem elsewhere within the car's wiring harness. The best thing about this tool, besides being compact and handheld, is that it doesn't require any interpretation of data by the operator. The little light on the unit lights or doesn't light depending upon whether the alternator is good or not.

Unfortunately, while this is a great little piece of equipment and there are other similar tools available, once you determine that the alternator is not the culprit, you still have to fix the electrical problem.

Your BMW Starter

The other major electrical component in your BMW's electrical system is used only a few times a day but is the single largest power user and most critical to your BMW's operation - its starter. A BMW starter is simply a DC motor that turns the engine crankshaft through the flywheel, starting the combustion process by creating compression within the cylinders. Voltage to the starter is supplied directly from the battery and is controlled by a relay and/or solenoid operated from the key switch inside your BMW.

Starters can be of varying types and designs - gear-reduction types for higher torque, permanent-magnet types to reduce size and weight, or just plain, old-fashioned heavy starters. But whatever the type, they all function in the same basic way.

Although the starter drive, or "Bendix" as it was commonly referred to, can be replaced separately from the starter assembly, it's rarely recommended anymore. Failure of any part is due to age, usage and heat stress, to which the entire BMW starter has also been subjected, so that other parts are just as old and stressed. It's quite common to replace the starter drive only to have to buy another starter in a few months because the brushes wore out, a magnet broke, the solenoid failed, among other common mishaps. Replace the BMW starter as a unit and have the electrical system checked at the same time to prevent further problems.

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Other Troubleshooting&Maintenance Tips
For Your BMW's Electrical System
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Your BMW's electrical system should be completely checked and tested every two years or whenever serviced for any type of driveability problem. Many problems associated with day-to-day driveability are caused by voltage variations and must be the first step in troubleshooting any problem. This is due to the use of computerized controls in most cars these days and even quite minor voltage changes can alter the controls.

Your BMW's electrical system must be load tested to certain standards, which can be simulated by turning on all the accessories and lights for simple voltage drain but that is not an all-inclusive test. Measuring circuit loads with an ammeter, circuit voltage drops with a DVOM, variable circuit load testing, etc. is the only way to fully check function. With electrical systems operating at 80%-100% of capacity nowadays (see Power Demand Chart), it is crucial that it be up to standards.

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Source: Autohausaz.com

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Areas: Avondale, Estates, Buckhead, Clarkston, Decatur, Mableton, Marietta, Norcross, Scottdale, Smyrna, Tucker 

Categories: Autos | Repair&Service | Auto Repairs | Brake Service | Transmissions

 zipcodes: 30326 30324 30309 30363 30327 30342 30376 30359 30329 30306 30332 30319 30318 

30322 30308 31141 31145 31146 30339 30333 30313 30307 30379 30369 30303 39901 30361 31106 

31107 3112631150 31156 31192 31193  31195 31196 

Close to: Dunwoody, Sandy Springs, Roswell, Decatur  & Midtown Atlanta
RETURN TO BUCKHEAD ATLANTA AUTO REPAIR

Jeep Head Gasket, Jeep Valve, Jeep Valve Cover Gasket: Jeep Engine Repairs - Engine Knock - Low Oil Pressure - Mercedes BMW Chrysler Jeep | Lexus, Jaguar, Land Rover, Toyota, Honda, GM, Ford and Lincoln - Servicing vehicles for residents of Atlanta, Sandy Springs Smyrna, Decatur, Scottdale, Marietta, Avondale Estates, Clarkston Mableton, Tucker, Stone Mountain, Austell, Norcross, and Pine Lake.  Larry Johnson's Buckhead Auto Center is top-flight experienced in balancing, diagnostic analysis, emissions, general inspections, loaner cars, major repairs, minor oil lube, abs anti lock brakes, catalytic converters, computer system, obd2, cooling, drivetrain, electrical, engines, fuel, hydraulics, ignition, mufflers, exhaust, steering, suspension, shock absorbers, transmissions, radiator flush, towing, tune ups, warranties, welding, wheel alignment, and while you wait wiring 

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Atlanta Jeep Repair and Troubleshooting *
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Larry Johnson | Buckhead Atlanta Auto Repair Center
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Jeep Repair and Troubleshooting

For some, jeep troubleshooting comes easy because of all the experience they have had over the years. But for the rest of us, trying to troubleshoot our jeeps to find out what is causing our problems could be ranked right up there with pulling teeth.

Here are some of the more common problems you may encounter with your jeep and what you can do to fix them.

My jeep won't start

I have run into this problem with my jeep as well as other vehicles that I have owned and the problem can usually be caused by corrosion on the battery post and battery cables.
You can fix this by disconnecting your battery cables and cleaning the battery post and connecters with a wire brush.

*My engine stalls while accelerating

The first thing you need to ask your self is, does this normally happen on cold wet mornings when the engine is cold?

If the answer is yes, then the most probable cause is moisture in your distributor cap.

*My gas mileage is not what it should be

There are literally dozens of reasons that could be causing poor gas mileage. We will take a look at some of the more common causes.

Check to make sure that your tires are not under inflated; this could cause extra friction between your tires and the road making your jeep work harder causing reduced gas mileage.

If you haven't had a tune up on your jeep, this is more then likely the cause of your poor gas mileage. Give your jeep a tune up and be sure to change your air filter as this could also contribute to the problem.

We have only touched on a few of the more common problems people face while jeep troubleshooting. There are many great resources out that will make jeep troubleshooting much easier and fun for everyone.

Close to: Dunwoody, Sandy Springs, Roswell, Decatur  & Midtown Atlanta
RETURN TO BUCKHEAD ATLANTA AUTO REPAIR

Chrysler Head Gasket, Dodge Valve, Audi Valve Cover Gasket:
Lexus Engine Repairs - Engine Knock - Low Oil Pressure - Mercedes BMW Chrysler Jeep | Lexus, Jaguar, Land Rover, Toyota, Honda, GM, Ford and Lincoln - Servicing vehicles for residents of Atlanta, Sandy Springs Smyrna, Decatur, Scottdale, Marietta, Avondale Estates, Clarkston Mableton, Tucker, Stone Mountain, Austell, Norcross, and Pine Lake.  Larry Johnson's Buckhead Auto Center is top-flight experienced in balancing, diagnostic analysis, emissions, general inspections, loaner cars, major repairs, minor oil lube, abs anti lock brakes, catalytic converters, computer system, obd2, cooling, drivetrain, electrical, engines, fuel, hydraulics, ignition, mufflers, exhaust, steering, suspension, shock absorbers, transmissions, radiator flush, towing, tune ups, warranties, welding, wheel alignment, and while you wait wiring
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Hottest TV Cars of All Thime*
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Larry Johnson | Buckhead Atlanta Auto Repair Center
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Just for fun I thought we'd take a look at our favorite TV show cars.  And then back to reality - remember Buckhead Auto Repair Center - we are THE Greater Atlanta luxury and domestic  car repair center FOR LESS - a complete state-of-art facility convieniently located in Buckhead  - Why pay dealer prices?

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Hottest TV Cars of All Time 
The Automotive eZine - Television

TV's Dream Cars

Pity the fool who bought a black Chevy Camaro and drove it down the streets of Gahanna, Ohio, in 1981.

To children of the day it just couldn't compare to a Pontiac Trans-Am. Especially one that had a roving red light in the grill and a smooth voice that cooed "Hello, Michael."

But you still had a chance to earn our respect. You just needed to blare Dixie, Duke Boys-style, from one of those electronic horns - quite possibly the most annoying car accessory in history. At least until we saw a Civic glow in neon.

As day drifted into dusk, Mom would call us for dinner. And again. And a third time. We picked at our meatloaf, cleverly hid our green beans underneath the ridge of our plate. We politely asked to be excused, and then darted to the beanbag chair in front of that magical box in the living room.

No matter how much trouble we got into that day, no matter how many girls gave us the cooties, we knew that at that same Bat Time - on that same Bat Channel - we'd get to dream, if only for 60 minutes.

Kids will be kids, sure. All we had were dreams back then. But we grew up, became adults, learned what life is really all about. Along the way, those memories got pushed behind the bills that fill our mailbox, the work that fills our in-box.

But they never go away. No, they lurk there, waiting until a Gran Torino speeds past you on I-275. And they make you smile.

Chances are most of us will never own a Ferrari. Or a Barracuda. Or a psychedelic green van with - zoinks! - a talking dog named Scooby Doo. Back then, it was enough to just think that someday that would be us behind the wheel. So every time we see Mr. T, we can think back to watching TV with our dad and our brother, knowing that we all loved it when a plan came together in that GMC.

Hottest TV Cars of All Time

1. Batmobile (Batman 1966-68)

The '55 Lincoln Futura debuted at the Chicago Auto Show in 1955, and like hundreds of concept cars, it never made it to a dealer near you. But it caught the eye of the show's producers 11 years later and George Barris, known as the "King of the Kustomizers" worked his magic.

Sure, what ultimately kept the streets of Gotham safe was the street smarts of the Caped Crusader, the Boy Wonder and, let's be honest, Alfred. But we got fired up every time we saw the Batmobile scorch out of the Batcave to "POW!" The Penguin.

Where to see it: The series isn't on DVD, but rent the comically brilliant 1966 flick Batman - The Movie (gotta love the Shark Repellent!).

2. The General Lee (The Dukes of Hazzard 1979-85)

If you miss the bright orange paint on the '69 Dodge Charger, or the Confederate flag on its roof, you'll definitely yield to its Dixie horn.

A generation of boys never meanin' no harm grew up dreaming of skimming across the hood of their car and rescuing leggy Daisy Duke by launching their car over Sheriff Roscoe P. Coltrane's always-doomed cruiser.

Where to see it: The series is on DVD, or you can create your own YouTube version with the $275 General Lee decal kit from www.buildagenerallee.com.

3. Magnum's Ferrari (Magnum, P.I. 1980-88)

The '79 Ferrari 308 GTS was designed by Italian car design firm Pininfarina, and driven cross-country by writer P.J. O'Rourke before the series began.

Forget that big number on the gas station signs these days - Ferrari is synony-mous with the ultimate luxury in sports cars. And who wouldn't want Magnum's life? Living in a plush guest house, drinking beer, romancing the ladies? And all on someone else's dime.

Where to see it: The show airs daily on the Sleuth Channel, but catch the real thing at the Cars of the Stars Motor Museum in Great Britain or on the Universal Studios' Studio Tour in Hollywood.

4. KITT (Knight Rider 1982-86)

Knight Industries Two Thousand, a '82 Pontiac Trans-Am T-top, was designed by Michael Scheffe.

If you commute the streets of Tampa every day, you want - dare we say, need - Turbo Boost, flame-throwers and automatic pilot.

Where to see it: On DVD. The updated series, starring Justin Bruening, debuts on NBC at 9 p.m. Sunday.

Close to: Dunwoody, Sandy Springs, Roswell, Decatur  & Midtown Atlanta.
RETURN TO BUCKHEAD ATLANTA AUTO REPAIR

Mercedes Head Gasket, Mercedes Valve, Mercedes Valve Cover Gasket:
Mercedes Engine Repairs - Engine Knock - Low Oil Pressure - Mercedes BMW Chrysler Jeep | Lexus, Jaguar, Land Rover, Toyota, Honda, GM, Ford and Lincoln - Servicing vehicles for residents of Atlanta, Sandy Springs Smyrna, Decatur, Scottdale, Marietta, Avondale Estates, Clarkston Mableton, Tucker, Stone Mountain, Austell, Norcross, and Pine Lake.  Larry Johnson's Buckhead Auto Center is top-flight experienced in balancing, diagnostic analysis, emissions, general inspections, loaner cars, major repairs, minor oil lube, abs anti lock brakes, catalytic converters, computer system, obd2, cooling, drivetrain, electrical, engines, fuel, hydraulics, ignition, mufflers, exhaust, steering, suspension, shock absorbers, transmissions, radiator flush, towing, tune ups, warranties, welding, wheel alignment, and while you wait wiring 
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How To Diagnose Needed Mercedes Repairs*
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Larry Johnson | Buckhead Atlanta Auto Repair Center
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Oil pressure light flickering? Engine knock? Both? Major repair problem or minor annoyance? Either way, you should always quickly investigate the source before it becomes an even bigger problem.

Oil pressure - or more precisely the lack of it - in certain parts of your Mercedes' engine can become a major repair nightmare. All engines lose a certain amount of oil pressure over time as normal wear increases bearing clearances. But unusually low oil pressure in an engine, regardless of mileage, is often an indication that something is seriously wrong and requires immediate repairs.


That "tappet" noise may be only one sticking lifter but it may also indicate an oil flow problem that will eventually cause damage to at least one valve.

A flickering oil light is more difficult to troubleshoot if your engine is not obviously in need of major repair work.

Modern engines with hydraulic lifters, tight tolerance bearings and miniature oil filters require conscientious monitoring of oil pressure.

The following diagnostic tips (excerpted from "Troubleshooting Low Oil Pressure", Underhood Service, 10/97) will help you determine whether you have a major repair problem or just a minor annoyance.

Mercedes Oil Pressure Diagnostic Tips

A good place to start your diagnosis of a low pressure condition is at the dipstick. Check the oil to see that it's at the proper level (not low nor overfilled). If low, the engine may be burning or leaking oil. Adding oil may temporarily remedy the low pressure condition, but unless the level is properly maintained, the problem may recur.

If the engine is leaking oil, try new Mercedes head gasket or seals to fix the leak. If the engine is burning oil, the Mercedes valve guides and seals are most likely worn, but the rings and cylinders might be bad, too. A wet compression test and/or leakdown test will tell you if it's the Mercedes valve guides or rings and cylinders that are worn.

The least expensive fix in the case of worn guides is to install new Mercedes valve guide seals (if possible) without pulling the head.

The best fix is to pull the heads and have the guides lined, knurled, replaced or reamed for oversized Mercedes valve stems. Worn rings and cylinders would call for a complete overhaul.

Also note the condition of the oil and make sure it's the correct viscosity for your Mercedes and climate.

Heavier viscosities, such as 20W-50, straight 30W or 40W, may help maintain good pressure in hot weather but are too thick for cold weather driving and may cause start-up lubrication problems - especially in overhead cam engines.

Light viscosities, on the other hand, such as straight 10W or 5W-20, may improve cold weather starting and lubrication but may be too thin in hot weather driving to maintain good pressure.

That's why most car and OE parts manufacturers recommend 5W-30 in modern engines for year-round driving.

If the level is okay, the next thing to check would probably be the pressure sending unit. Disconnect the unit and check the warning lamp or gauge reading.

If the warning light remains on with the sending unit disconnected, there's probably a short to ground in the warning lamp circuit. Likewise, if there's no change in a gauge reading, the problem is in the instrumentation, not the engine.

Bad sending units are quite common, so many mechanics replace the unit without checking anything else to see if that cures the problem. This approach might save time, but it's risky because unless you measure pressure directly with a gauge attached to the engine, you have no way of knowing if pressure is within specifications or not.

Most warning lamps won't come on until pressure is dangerously low (less than four or five pounds). So don't assume the absence of a warning lamp means pressure is okay, especially if the engine is making any valve or bearing noise.

One Final Warning

If you insist on driving blind and deaf to the obvious warnings coming from under your Mercedes' hood, the next sound you hear may be a rapping or knock noise from the rod bearings - which will eventually be followed by dead silence as your engine seizes and your Mercedes coasts to a dead stop.

You'll find everything you need for Mercedes Benz models like:

Mercedes 190E parts - Mercedes 240D parts - Mercedes 300E parts - Mercedes SL parts - Mercedes 450SL parts - Mercedes 350SL parts - Mercedes ML320 parts - SLK 230 parts - C230 parts - and More

Don't Forget:

Repair articles are added regularly. Come back often to check for new maintenance topics.

These repair tips are designed only as a starting point. Please seek the assistance of a professional Mercedes mechanic for all repair problems beyond your capabilities. And remember us at Buckhead Auto Repair Center, YOUR BEST-FOR-LESS full service Atlanta auto repair center - Why Pay Dealer Prices?

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*Source: Autohausaz.com
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Areas: Avondale Estates, Buckhead, Clarkston, Decatur, Mableton, Marietta, Norcross, Scottdale,Smyrna, Tucker  

Categories: Autos | Repair&Service | Auto Repairs | Brake Service | Transmissions

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Larry Johnson's Buckhead Auto Repair Center services vehicle owners primarily in this zip codes - 30326 30324 30309 30363 30327 30342 30376 30359 30329 30306 30332 30319 30318 30322 30308 

31141 3114531146 30339 30333 30313 30307 30379 30369 30303 39901 30361 31106 31107 31126 

31131 31139 3115031156 31192 31193  31195 31196 30334 30301 30302 30325 30343 30347 30348 30353 30355