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Dave's Touch-Ups, Inc. Furniture Refinishing

2560 N. 2879th Rd., Marseilles, IL 61341
815-795-3417
www.mtco.com/~touchups
Hours: By Appointment only.
Payment: Cash or Check
  • We also service the Plainfield area.
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    Marseilles, IL

    Furniture Refinishing for less

    Posted 07:46 AM October 26, 2010

        At Dave's Touch-Ups, Inc. we offer furniture repairs, cleanings, touch-ups, refurbishing, gluing, stripping, and complete refinishing of all you wooden furniture or trim. Call Dave today at 815/795-3417 and get the pieces you need, fixed up for less. Or visit Dave's web page to learn more about Dave's services. We have tons of photos and referrals. We make our customers happy, what ever it takes. Personal service with Dave, will put you at ease with your valuable antiques.
     Save some money today and know it will be done right at Dave's Touch-Ups, Inc. Http://www.mtco.com/~touchups/

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    Mary Todd Lincoln Tea Cart Restoration

    Posted 01:48 PM April 29, 2008

     Here is an old vintage teacart I restored that used to be Mary Todd Lincolns'.

     http://www.mtco.com/~antiques/Mary_Todd_Lincoln's_Tea_Cart_from_1800s/

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    What Types of Furniture Repairs does Dave do?

    Posted 01:07 PM April 17, 2008

    A lot customers call Dave's Touch-Ups, asking me how much to repair their furniture, not knowing what kind of repairs I do. For instance I have a lot of people call to get their leather repaired, or their upholstery repaired, or some mechanisms underneath the furniture, such as in rocker recliners. Unfortunately, I only work on wood. I mostly do repairs of gouges, nicks, scratches, dings, dents, smoke damage, fire damage, flood damage, watermarks, water rings, cigarette burns,, blemishes, abrasions, and the like on wooden furniture. I do not do upholstery or leather repairs. And I do not repair springs and mechanical parts on couches and recliners. I like to stick to what I know and that is touching up wooden furniture. I also do complete restorations on both antique and modern furniture. I can do a simple cleaning or refurbishing, to touch ups, or stripping and refinishing, but only on wood. I do however have referrals for my customers, for repairs that I do not include with my services. 815-795-3417
    Other repairs I can do, include caning chairs, but only if they have what is called a spline around the edge, that is glued and pressed in place. I can also clean old glue out of loose joints on furniture and re glue for a better bond. I do some veneer work, but mostly replacing or re veneering flat or slightly rounded surfaces. I can do minor inlaying, work, but nothing to fancy. My main specialty is touch-ups.
    Please visit my home page at http://www.mtco.com/~touchups/ for more information...Dave

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    Will dipping my furniture ruin it?

    Posted 07:13 AM March 25, 2008

    Will dipping ruin my furniture?
    People often ask me if I have dip tanks,  because they are concerned I will ruin their furniture.  Usually it will be customers that have nice old antiques. I do not have any dipping tanks and I do not use any power washing.  It is my opinion that these methods can ruin the patina, and therefore the value of old antiques. Dip tanks can loosen glue joints and make veneers come loose. Power washers can raise the grain, and dig into soft woods, which will have to be sanded smooth prior to staining and finishing.  Now I will be the first person to tell you that certain pieces will be cheaper to dip, than to do it by hand, which is the way I do things. These pieces would include painted trim, painted doors that have no glue joints, and any wood without veneers.  My way is more labor intensive and cost a little more, but will include the entire process of stripping and refinishing. Just keep in mind that even though dipping, is a less expensive way to strip your furniture, which you will most likely have to pay more to have it prepared to accept stains and a finishes. Sometimes, joints will have to be glued, and the wood will have to be sanded. All these procedures will take the aging patina effects out of your old antiques.  I often tell my customers, that if someone tells them they are going to sand their vintage antique, to find another refinisher to do the job. I do not sand a piece unless there is absolutely no other option. Sometimes we refinishers do not have a choice and then sanding is ok. But I say save that option as a last resort. If you do not care about the value of the piece, then I would say go for it. I have had customers bring me furniture that has been dipped and power washed.  I was not surprised how much work I had to do to bring them back to original look. Sometimes pieces only need a cleaning, touchups, or refurbishing, and not a complete restoration. So talk to your favorite local refinisher. If you do not feel comfortable with what he tells you, ask to talk to a few of their references. Again the above statements are just my opinion, and I am sure that other refinishers out there will see it differently than me, especially if they dip their client’s pieces. Like I said earlier, there are some legitimate reasons for dipping and it is not always a bad thing. Use your own judgment and proceed with caution………Dave’s Touch-Ups, Inc.

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    Antique doors from 1884 are up for sale.

    Posted 11:52 AM March 14, 2008

    Antique doors from 1884 are up for sale.


    ANTIQUE PINE DOORS THAT WERE SALVAGED FROM THE FAMILY FARM WHICH WAS ESTABLISHED IN 1884. THE FARM WAS DONATED TO THE LOCAL FIRE DEPARTMENT, & WE TOOK THESE DOORS OUT BEFORE THE FIREMEN DESTROYED THEM IN THEIR PRACTICE FIRE DRILLS.
    These doors all have original knobs and hinges. They also have original shellac finishes that have crazed over the years.There is a small box of extra hardware that will be included with the first purchace. There are three parlor doors reaching 89-3/4" tall.
    The sizes for all doors are written on post it notes attached to the doors labeled 1 through 9.
    Two of the doors from the family farmhouse, were entrance doors from the front porch. Original Antique hinges, knobs, faceplates & latches. The doors look like a special Faux quarter sawn oak pattern was applied to the exterior side & the inside is pine. See the picture labeled exterier doors to see what both sides look like. All original finishes are on these doors also.
    Both doors are hinged the same & are 32-1/8" wide X 1-3/4" thick. One door is 83-1/8" tall & the other is 83-5/8" tall.
    We are asking $85.00 each for the doors. If you buy them all, we will take $50.00 off the 9th door.
    This price is final, so please do not request a better deal. Either they will be sold at this price or not at all. Any profits will be divided between the peterson family members.

    Call 815/795-3417 & ask for Dave.


    Click here to see the doors & the farm they came from.

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    My number one question.

    Posted 12:08 PM March 10, 2008

    Almost 80% of the homes I go into, I have someone ask me what kind of wood is this? When it comes to furniture, I do not claim to be an expert on identifying all of the over 4000 species of wood on this planet. However if it is oak, birch, maple, mahogany, ash, cedar, walnut, elm, or pine, I can tell you right away. There are so many ways to put a finish onto wood, that it is very easy to confuse even the experts. Stains and glazes can make one type of wood look like something completly different. Then you have the faux finishes, that are even more deseptive. The only way to really know is to take a small piece and put it under a microscope. There are also a lot of fake woods out there, but those are a little easier to identify. You have vinyl photo finishes from factorys, that are usually used on inexpensive furniture and cabinets. And then you have plastic molded to look like wood grain and stained to look like wood. Some of these are so good, that one cannot tell with out tapping it to hear the definate sound of wood. Some pieces of furniture have moldings attached that are also plastic and will disolve or get ruined by refinishing the piece, if one is not careful. When stripping these parts, you have to work lightly and quickly. Or just call dave to do it for you. Furniture refinishing is what I do best. Visit http:/www.mtco.com/~refinish/ to have Dave do the work for you.

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    Just some of the cities Dave covers.

    Posted 12:06 PM March 10, 2008

    Cities: Aurora,  Bolingbrook, Braidwood, Burr Ridge, Channahon, Cherry Hill, Coal City, Darien, Channahon, Country Club Hills, Countryside, Crest Hill, Darien, DeKalb, Des Plaines, Downers Grove, Elgin, Elmwood, Fairmont, Forest Park, Frankfort, Glenn Ellyn, Grand Ridge, Hickory Hills, Hindsdale, Joliet, Lemont, Lockport, La Salle, Lombard, Maywood, Marseilles, Mendota, Minooka, Mokena, Montgomery, Morris, Naperville, New Lennox, Oak Forest, Oglesby, Oswego, Ottawa, Orland Park, Palos Heights, Palos Hills, Park Ridge, Plainfield, Peru, Plano, Pontiac,  Rockdale, Rock Island, Romeoville,  Sandwich, Shorewood, Spring Valley, Streator, Tinley Park, Warrenville, Woodridge, Frankfort, Wheatland, Wheaton, West Chicago, Westmont, Willowbrook, Winfield, Wilmington, Wood Dale, , Yorkville, Illinois, IL.

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    Will Restorations ruin my Antique?

    Posted 11:50 AM February 28, 2008

    To Refinish or not to Refinish? Call Dave at 815/795-3417

    Will Refinishing my antique furniture ruin the value of the piece? That is another commonly asked question. My simple answer to that, is if your antique is in good shape and you refinish it, you will decrease the value. If it is in bad shape, and you refinish it, then you can only help it's value. No one wants an ugly old piece sitting in their house. Most people have a few old pieces laying around, or in a corner as a decoration. But if it is falling apart and the finish is coming off, then you should have an expert look it over. I will be the first person to tell you, to leave it alone, if it looks nice. The fewer changes you make, the better. Try to keep all original hardware, and existing finish if possible. If you change handles, then save the old ones and keep them with the piece. I know that people are afraid to do anything with their vintage furniture, because all you ever hear is you will ruin the value if you mess with it. Just ask yourself these questions. 1.) Do I really like the way this piece looks in my home, or is it an eye sore to look at? OR 2.) Is this piece going to be for me in my home, or am I interested in selling to a collector? If you are concerned with the value, then use my simple rule above. If it is in bad shape, then restore it. If in fair to good shape, then leave it alone. Or just have Dave look at it for a professional evaluation. http://www.mtco.com/~touchups/ Sometimes a piece only needs what I call refurbishing. That is a careful cleaning, minor repairs, and touch up, and maybe a light coat of finish applied to the surface. Most people that have old pieces and are concerned about having it worked on, can rest easier knowing that an old piece cannot go through time, with out getting a few battle wounds. Most of these imperfections will blend right into a piece just by restoration. You do not need every crack filled in or every nick filled in. Just a simple refinishing can make a beat up piece look wonderful. No need to worry about every nick or gouge. Now sure you may think I am biased just because this is what I do. But I sure would not want an ugly old beat up antique in my home for everyone to see. I would want it to look it's best. If I were worried about it's value, I would call a collector, sell it, and let him or her worry about fixing it up. I just love hearing on the Antiques Road Show, how they find a drawer with a new bottom on it, and say it lost it's value because it has been replaced. But maybe the drawer bottom was busted so bad and the owner of the piece had no choice, but to fix it so it is functional. Now if it was left broken, then they still would say, "oh this is broken&decreases the value." You cannot win. Use your own judgement, and use my rules above to make your decision.

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