Harrys Real Wood Furniture

The stains I use for furniture can be purchased at any professional paint store and there is a reason I only use those kinds. For the price you get a much better look and much better quality stain for the money. Most of the stains you purchase at your local hardware store are diluted and just don't look at good. Stains like Zar , Old Master, Wood Classics which is a Sherman Williams brand are what I use mostly. I hand rub my stains using a white sock with a vinyl glove underneath it for that hand rubbed look that my customers rave about. Before staining have some paint thinner and cheapest kind works just as well on hand. I keep the el cheapo throw away brushes for a dollar that you can purchase at a hardware store to get in the cracks which I clean and reuse for another project. Happy staining and remember to have adequate heat along with ventilation to make project dry properly and for your safety. From the owner of harrys real wood furniture - Harry Conant

I do alot of bunk beds and wooden beds so I apply a white finish other than paint so one can still see the wood. Folks ask me why a white stain versus paint and I tell them it's the best of both world's as it allows some of the wood to still be seen yet color is very white. I use the Sherman Williams pickling white as it has superior covering that my customers have raved over but I also spray on a lacquer overcoat to keep it from turning as white draws dirt like a magnet. Also not doing a super smooth sand on the wood allows for stain to get deeper into the wood giving it a much whiter look. Thanks - Harry Conant - owner of Harrys Real Wood Furniture

I get asked often if I'd like to purchase hardwoods/barter and it depends where wood has been stored at. Most folks assume wood stored out side that has been tarped is dry enough to make furniture. Most of the time I find that stuff to wet plus storing it outside leaves it very prone to fungus/mold which goes right through the wood that is permanent discoloration leaving it unusable. It is always best to store any wood - especially hardwoods inside in a barn or a shed but anywhere it is shielded from the extremes of Michigan winters. Thanks

A part of my woodworking business involves repairing furniture from chairs&tables with a reputation for a one time fix that will last many years. Often times I run into prior repairs & main reason they have failed is using inexpensive glues. The cheaper glues don't sink into the grain of the wood providing enough " bite" as we call in amongst professional furniture makers to make parts adhere correctly. For wood I really have to recommend Gorilla glue products, Tite bond is another as well as Elmers makes some glues that really bond well. I use no screws in my repairs with only dowels, bisquits, etc. to insure a long and secure repair. I tell my woodworking students that you get what you pay for so do yourself a favor & spend that extra couple of dollars so your repair will last many years. Try to find a glue with slowest clamp/set time so you can clamp your project or if a chair secure with straps in enough time so you can move things a tad until lined up. Thanks

I barter for both wood to build furniture with as well as firewood. A lady had some nice oak in her basement that wasn't enough to make a large item out of but two small ones. So I made her a speakers stand&I made a coffee table out of the rest. I have make pieces of furniture also for folks in exchange to be able to cut trees down or that are down for firewood to burn. Thanks - Harry Conant - owner of Harry's Real Wood Furniture

I get asked by my students if I sharpen all my saws , planer blades , chisels ,etc. I never sharpen my saw blades or planer blades as the level on these can't be done by hand. Leave this job to a professional saw sharpener who has the precise equipment to put the correct "hook & loop" on. That is what makes the blade cut smooth plus on planer blades, as they are so long , it is hard to get the right angle on unless they are in a jig to hold them.

I do sharpen my chisel blades as that can be done easily with a stone. I prefer a oil based stone & start with rough side then work down to smooth.  I don't use a hand planer so can't comment on that but I would buy a jig they advertise in woodworker magazines as that is a critical angle which is hard to do by hand.

Scrapers sharpen easily with a hand stone also but I don't sharpen my router bits as they have to have a precise angle on them. I take them to a professional sharpener as they have the equipment to get that angle.  Keeping all your equipment sharp will greatly lessen you chance of getting injured & make woodworking much more fun.

Remember - safety first as it only takes a split second to get hurt but a long time to heal. God bless from the furniture maker in Vicksburg , Michigan

I often get asked where & why I purchase my wood from a particular place by students who attend my woodworking classes. Us professional woodworkers are a bit like painters in that what is good for one painter might not be desireable to the other. I purchase my hardwoods in Augusta , Michigan as it is not far away plus price is reasonable.

I also want a minimum of an inch and one eights thick as I want at least 1 inch thick on table tops. This  mill also cuts their boards very straight so I have little waste plus they come out of kiln without very little cupping or twists. I usually get closer to an inch and a quarter thick on most stock plus moisture contact is suitable for furniture. Most of lumber that is of construction grade is to high in moisture content off shelf for me to make furniture. Because the sawmill in Augusta is so state of the art I take each of my students on a 2 hour tour of the place at end of class.

If your the weekend woodworker & want to just make something to "get your feet wet" any retail lumber yard will have number two grade pine. I'd just put it somewhere at 70 degrees- inside , stack some sticks between for air flow and let a fan run from one end  for a couple of weeks.  Don't attempt to dry your lumber outside in the sun as it could cause it to warp & twist badly. 

As usual feel free to call , E-mail me at harryatvick@aol.com or visit my shop.  God bless & happy woodworking & remember - safety first!

I get asked this question alot - where do you get your stains ,varnish , paint ,etc?  I only purchase these items from a professional paint store. The several mamouth home supply places are good for your do - it -yourselfer but their paints ,stains & other finishes lack the quality I need as a professional furniture maker. Surprisingly the professional paint stores are not much more plus I think you get way more value for your money as the product looks better and covers more.

I also invest in quality brushes there as most other brushes for applying finishes at other places is just inferior. my favorite stain is Zar , second is Porter - wood guardian or Old Masters.  Zar is the best but not all stores carry it so not sure if it is beef with suppliers or what.  I like Granhams of all the water based finishes and use Deft oil based poly as it is tough as nails. I put all my stains on with a sock (white) as it covers much better than a brush & really gives hand rubbed look. Feel free to E-mail me or call me if you have any questions as I don't have all the answers but I have over 12 years as a professional furniture maker. God bless from the furniture maker in Vicksburg , Michigan 

I often get asked what type of equipment I should buy to which I aways respond "what do you want to do'?  I specialize in large objects so I have no need for scroll saws or a lathe. But you may want to do smaller stuff like my friend Ralph who has a  scroll saw ,  a bench top jointer(Delta) that he bought from me plus some other smaller equipment. We have a woodworkers guild in Kalamazoo that has many members with a wealth of info for the beginner plus lots of "newbies" at woodworking so you won't feel alone.

I don't buy any equipment that doesn't have the name Rigid , Delta , Old Milwaukee ,etc.  Watch out for moisture content on your table tops if you work out of your garage unless it is heated as they will rust like bad steel wool. I always wax my tops of my saws that I buy as well as my jointers with carnuba car wax before even running . Well time to go but always remember safety first before you start up that machine & contact me or visit my shop if you have questions as I will write more blogs. God bless from the furniture maker in Vicksburg , Michigan