I've lived in Pennsauken for more than five years.
Q&A Mentor (313 pts.)
It's really simple. You can increase the pressure of the shower head by decreasing the flow of water on its outlet side. If the current shower head has a 2.5 gallons per minute rating, you can lower it to a 2.2gpm (or lower) and increase its pressure through the shower head.
It's hard to say without diagnosing it while it's running or looking at how it was installed. My first inclination is to say the problem quit possibly could be your draft system itself. Did the installer use the correct size? An excessive amount of bends, turns and linear feet of pipe will require you to up-size the diameter of the vent pipe. What type of exterior capping is being used outside? Is it a flapper type (not recommended)? Does it open and close? Where does it vent outside of the house? Some locations are prohibited by code to use as an exhaust outlet. These areas will cause wind turbulence and stop your system from venting; or they can cause a positive pressure in the vent tube, leading to appliance back-drafting.
Winterization has two connotations. The first applies to if the structure will be vacant for an extended period of time during the extreme temperatures. The second applies to prepping the house for the extreme temperatures whether it's occupied or not. There are slightly different approaches between the two. For example, a vacant or unoccupied structure would have the water system shut down. The second description is more along the lines of weatherization but people tend to use them interchangeably.
It sounds as if you've encounter somewhat of an inexperienced technician. They will always seem to come back to "it's the control board" mentality. Very seldom does it ever turn out to be the control board. Also, if he told you those sensors were CO2 detectors... I seriously question his technical abilities. Just for educational purposes the CO2 sensors you referenced are actually called roll-out switches. They are located around the burner assembly and are designed to shut the system down if an unsafe situation caused the flames to burn outside of the heater's chamber. Heaters do not have CO2 (carbon monoxide) sensors. Depending on the ignition control style you're using a weak or faulty signal; an incorrect or bad ground to the ignition control module or heater unit could cause the spark igniter to function improperly. But I tend to think this was not the case looking at your following statement. An intermittent operating system that shuts down prior to reaching thermostat set temperature is the result of something else not the igniter. I believe your high limit control is being activated. This device is meant to shut the system down if the internal temperatures reach the manufacturer's recommend maximum highest temperature setting. This is their "Do Not Go Above" rated setting. To be a little more descriptive about the problem you're dealing with, let me explain the normal operation of a heating system. Normally, the thermostat turns on the heater until the house reaches set temperature, the flames come on to heat the internal furnace's chamber, the indoor blower motor (forced air-furnace) or indoor circulator pump (boiler) comes on to take that heat from the chamber to the living space, the house gets warm and the thermostat shuts down. If this is the same unit from last winter and you didn't encounter this problem than something in your house changed. Did you modify the ductwork? Did you change the structure of your house? Did you change the type and style of filters you were using? A high limit control is set for a max temperature of roughly 200 degrees. Every manufacturer is slightly different. If the internal chamber reaches this high temperature it will shut the burners down to protect the heater and you the occupant. If it's a forced air-furnace have the air-flow through the chamber checked for proper system temperature rise. If it's a boiler have the water-flow checked for temperature rise also. This will help the tech to test and calibrate proper flow into and out of the unit. Also have them check for excessive dirt buildup on the A/C coil (acts as an insulator/retains heat longer) and flue gas vent switch. They can also be potential causes.
Tinting windows will most likely be more expensive than covering your windows with thick drapery. Not only does it [drapery] help reduce drafting from the windows in the winter, it absorbs window solar gain in the summer. It is better than just tinting the windows. The real truth is doing this type of superficial stuff helps very little it’s a superficial amount of energy conserved when compared to the HVAC equipment usage. Go to the US Department of Energy and do the research. In 1997 a survey done on residential energy usage found the average home spent 30-55% of its monthly energy usage on HVAC equipment. Of this energy consumed a small portion of it is spent to offset solar gain, as I stated before it does play a part but a nominal part in the amount energy needed to cool a home. Solar gain happens twice in a day in the warmer months just before and just after peak sunrise. This means those windows affected must face an easterly or westerly position. Other factors that must be taken into account are how many windows facing the stated directions, current drapery if any, structural overhangs, or natural shading like trees or bushes. And since every house is different it’s an arbitrary amount of BTU solar gain per room. There are three ways to better spend your money to increase savings: insulate the exterior walls, floors (over a crawlspace) and attic to the proper R-Values; make sure the hvac equipment is sized correctly for the house when upgrading and have the hvac distribution (ducts or piping) system addressed to get the proper deliverable btus into the condition space. Everyone assumes the distribution system will put into the house whatever the system puts out. That’s false! Let’s say your house was sized for a 50,000 btu forced-air furnace the ductwork distribution system would need to be sized to deliver the right amount of airflow to put that heat into the house. If that ductwork could only carry 30% of the air-flow needed, you’re only getting about 30,000 btus of heat into the house. You would actually overwork the heater and cause it to produce a lot of unused heat due to poor duct design. Which one do you think would play a bigger part in your energy usage and conservation, not having a few windows glazed or a poorly performing hvac system?
I agree with Cardinalairservices. Heating and air-conditioning repair/service isn't just a matter of changing out a part. Contrary to what you might believe about our industry you could potentially kill yourself or someone else if the proper installation and calibrated adjustments aren't made.
We usually recommend a homeowner clean their outdoor condenser unit with a garden hose connected to the exterior hose bib. Caution: Do not set the stream pattern on high! You will run the risk of damaging the air-foil fins. The net result of excessive fin damaged is reduced cooling capacity. The fins and fin spacing aide in allowing that refrigerant to change state and give you the amount of cooling BTUs the system was designed to produce. A mild non- corrosive soap will help loosen and remove some of the surface dirt. Although this helps it's no substitute for a professional chemical cleaning by an HVAC service technician. These acidic chemicals are designed to remove dirt, grit and grime from your HVAC equipment. More importantly, when a technician services your system he can than perform an evaluation of its ability to operate at manufacturers' specification and make the necessary adjustments/repairs. Cleaning the coils is only part of servicing your central A/C system. If you must, it is critical these coils be handled with care; avoid damaging the fins, they are key to the A/C systems efficiency and cooling capacity!
Yes they are more energy efficient. Inverter drive technology will allow your system to modulate the capacity of its btu output. For example, on a mild summer day the occupants' of a house that's been estimated to have a 50,000 btu heat gain may want to take the humidity out of the air. Let's assume the outdoor temperature is 79 degrees and the indoor thermostat has been set for 74 degrees. The system would turn on and modulate, or simply put ramp up and down to give you let's say 20% of the estimated heat gain. That would be roughly 10,000 btu's of cooling to remove that humidity. This is all done through control boards that take AC voltage and converts it to DC voltage, which allows for a more controlled change in the system circuitry; physical magnets that are used in the motors and components that won't overheat or burnout from a reduction or change in voltage as the equipment ramps up and down. Conventional systems operate as an on and off component. They give you whatever they were designed to produce whether it's a mild day or an extremely hot day. A Two Ton (24,000 btu) air-conditioner will give you 24,000 btus of cooling 24/7 365 days a year, if it's operating within manufacturers' specifications. But that's another story!
The pilot light going out has nothing to do with the thermostat. I'm not sure of the more recent ovens but slightly older models did not utilize real thermostats they operated at a steady temperature. The problem most likely stems from an inoperative thermal flame sensor. Be careful when working with gas equipment! Your best bet is to have a qualified contractor do the repair.
Yes, it will still operate. As you know, gas and electric are two completely different energy sources. If you disconnect one from a house or appliance the other is unaffected, ie... If you remove the applied electricity from a gas stove you can still light the burners with a match. It's the same with the blower compartment on a furnace. Removing the gas does nothing to the furnace's fan, which is utilized in A/C mode. On a call for cooling from the thermostat the indoor blower and the outdoor condenser are the only portions of the system active to supply cooling.
If it's a copper looking valve it is the pressure temperature valve. A leak can form as a result of improper operation. That can be defined as temperature set extremely high, 120 is usually recommended; sediment in the tank builds up around the gasket of the valve releasing tank water, an imbalance in total system pressure, old dried-out gasket will not reset to valve closure or possibly a bad thermal expansion tank if you currently have one on the system. Unless you can diagnose and determine the problem or if you want to replace all the parts to be sure you address the actual root cause I suggest getting a qualified plumbing contractor. We know the valve works because it's releasing water out of the system. It does this to keep the internal pressure low so it doesn't end up exploding due to internal pressure buildup.
Some of the answer on here dumb found me! As a contractor and someone who's been in the industry close to 15 years it is amazing we as hvac people do not recognize the difference between manufacturers'. No wonder our customers' are as confused as we are! Here we have a potential customer (for another contractor in CA.) asking a legitimate question concerning the various brands and all I here is it doesn't matter! Not to be harsh but how absurd is that? Is there a difference between a Lexus LS and a Ford Taurus? To answer your question, Yes! Trane is a good product to purchase. I agree wholeheartedly with the statements, "Finding a qualified contractor is just as important as the equipment!" To the point of finding parts for the system, it all depends on the supply houses in your area. In my area of the country there is no difference from manufacturer to manufacturer on availability of standard parts. Although Trane is not one of our main equipment lines I have always liked the design and performance of the system when installed correctly. The differences in equipment can be found in such things as manufacturer control devices (specialized control boards), safety devices (how many and what type), warranties, where it’s assembles (inside or outside the states), quality of the metals used in equipment construction, research and development on new and existing equipment, design: minimum airflow loss through the cabinet and noise reduction; quality parts; for those of you who are thinking in your head they’re all made from China, I would suggest you buy a cheap drill from The Home Depot (or local home center) and get the same drill from Fastenal and put it through rigorous testing. There is much more that goes into the manufacturer’s cost, not accounting for the contractor’s cost and yes I do agree a good part of it is name recognition but they have established themselves as an industry leader with a quality product. My last point is how shocked I am to the comparison made to Tempstar and Goodman. These are low quality products that almost anyone can walk in from off the street to buy.
Some of the answer on here dumb found me! As a contractor and someone who's been in the industry close to 15 years it is amazing we as hvac people do not recognize the difference between manufacturers'. No wonder our customers' are as confused as we are! Here we have a potential customer (for another contractor in CA.) asking a legitimate question concerning the various brands and all I here is it doesn't matter! Not to be harsh but how absurd is that? Is there a difference between a Lexus LS and a Ford Taurus? To answer your question, Yes! Trane is a good product to purchase. I agree wholeheartedly with the statements, "Finding a qualified contractor is just as important as the equipment!" To the point of finding parts for the system, it all depends on the supply houses in your area. In my area of the country there is no difference from manufacturer to manufacturer on availability of standard parts. Although Trane is not one of our main equipment lines I have always liked the design and performance of the system when installed correctly. The differences in equipment can be found in such things as manufacturer control devices (specialized control boards), safety devices (how many and what type), warranties, where it’s assembles (inside or outside the states), quality of the metals used in equipment construction, research and development on new and existing equipment, design: minimum airflow loss through the cabinet and noise reduction; quality parts; for those of you who are thinking in your head they’re all made from China, I would suggest you buy a cheap drill from The Home Depot (or local home center) and get the same drill from Fastenal and put it through rigorous testing. There is much more that goes into the manufacturer’s cost, not accounting for the contractor’s cost and yes I do agree a good part of it is name recognition but they have established themselves as an industry leader with a quality product. My last point is how shocked I am to the comparison made to Tempstar and Goodman. These are low quality products that almost anyone can walk in from off the street to buy.
Some of the answer on here dumb found me! As a contractor and someone who's been in the industry close to 15 years it is amazing we as hvac people do not recognize the difference between manufacturers'. No wonder our customers' are as confused as we are! Here we have a potential customer (for another contractor in CA.) asking a legitimate question concerning the various brands and all I here is it doesn't matter! Not to be harsh but how absurd is that? Is there a difference between a Lexus LS and a Ford Taurus? To answer your question, Yes! Trane is a good product to purchase. I agree wholeheartedly with the statements, "Finding a qualified contractor is just as important as the equipment!" To the point of finding parts for the system, it all depends on the supply houses in your area. In my area of the country there is no difference from manufacturer to manufacturer on availability of standard parts. Although Trane is not one of our main equipment lines I have always liked the design and performance of the system when installed correctly. The differences in equipment can be found in such things as manufacturer control devices (specialized control boards), safety devices (how many and what type), warranties, where it’s assembles (inside or outside the states), quality of the metals used in equipment construction, research and development on new and existing equipment, design: minimum airflow loss through the cabinet and noise reduction; quality parts; for those of you who are thinking in your head they’re all made from China, I would suggest you buy a cheap drill from The Home Depot (or local home center) and get the same drill from Fastenal and put it through rigorous testing. There is much more that goes into the manufacturer’s cost, not accounting for the contractor’s cost and yes I do agree a good part of it is name recognition but they have established themselves as an industry leader with a quality product. My last point is how shocked I am to the comparison made to Tempstar and Goodman. These are low quality products that almost anyone can walk in from off the street to buy.
Some of the answer on here dumb found me! As a contractor and someone who's been in the industry close to 15 years it is amazing we as hvac people do not recognize the difference between manufacturers'. No wonder our customers' are as confused as we are! Here we have a potential customer (for another contractor in CA.) asking a legitimate question concerning the various brands and all I here is it doesn't matter! Not to be harsh but how absurd is that? Is there a difference between a Lexus LS and a Ford Taurus? To answer your question, Yes! Trane is a good product to purchase. I agree wholeheartedly with the statements, "Finding a qualified contractor is just as important as the equipment!" To the point of finding parts for the system, it all depends on the supply houses in your area. In my area of the country there is no difference from manufacturer to manufacturer on availability of standard parts. Although Trane is not one of our main equipment lines I have always liked the design and performance of the system when installed correctly. The differences in equipment can be found in such things as manufacturer control devices (specialized control boards), safety devices (how many and what type), warranties, where it’s assembles (inside or outside the states), quality of the metals used in equipment construction, research and development on new and existing equipment, design: minimum airflow loss through the cabinet and noise reduction; quality parts; for those of you who are thinking in your head they’re all made from China, I would suggest you buy a cheap drill from The Home Depot (or local home center) and get the same drill from Fastenal and put it through rigorous testing. There is much more that goes into the manufacturer’s cost, not accounting for the contractor’s cost and yes I do agree a good part of it is name recognition but they have established themselves as an industry leader with a quality product. My last point is how shocked I am to the comparison made to Tempstar and Goodman. These are low quality products that almost anyone can walk in from off the street to buy.
Some of the answer on here dumb found me! As a contractor and someone who's been in the industry close to 15 years it is amazing we as hvac people do not recognize the difference between manufacturers'. No wonder our customers' are as confused as we are! Here we have a potential customer (for another contractor in CA.) asking a legitimate question concerning the various brands and all I here is it doesn't matter! Not to be harsh but how absurd is that? Is there a difference between a Lexus LS and a Ford Taurus? To answer your question, Yes! Trane is a good product to purchase. I agree wholeheartedly with the statements, "Finding a qualified contractor is just as important as the equipment!" To the point of finding parts for the system, it all depends on the supply houses in your area. In my area of the country there is no difference from manufacturer to manufacturer on availability of standard parts. Although Trane is not one of our main equipment lines I have always liked the design and performance of the system when installed correctly. The differences in equipment can be found in such things as manufacturer control devices (specialized control boards), safety devices (how many and what type), warranties, where it’s assembles (inside or outside the states), quality of the metals used in equipment construction, research and development on new and existing equipment, design: minimum airflow loss through the cabinet and noise reduction; quality parts; for those of you who are thinking in your head they’re all made from China, I would suggest you buy a cheap drill from The Home Depot (or local home center) and get the same drill from Fastenal and put it through rigorous testing. There is much more that goes into the manufacturer’s cost, not accounting for the contractor’s cost and yes I do agree a good part of it is name recognition but they have established themselves as an industry leader with a quality product. My last point is how shocked I am to the comparison made to Tempstar and Goodman. These are low quality products that almost anyone can walk in from off the street to buy.
Some of the answer on here dumb found me! As a contractor and someone who's been in the industry close to 15 years it is amazing we as hvac people do not recognize the difference between manufacturers'. No wonder our customers' are as confused as we are! Here we have a potential customer (for another contractor in CA.) asking a legitimate question concerning the various brands and all I here is it doesn't matter! Not to be harsh but how absurd is that? Is there a difference between a Lexus LS and a Ford Taurus? To answer your question, Yes! Trane is a good product to purchase. I agree wholeheartedly with the statements, "Finding a qualified contractor is just as important as the equipment!" To the point of finding parts for the system, it all depends on the supply houses in your area. In my area of the country there is no difference from manufacturer to manufacturer on availability of standard parts. Although Trane is not one of our main equipment lines I have always liked the design and performance of the system when installed correctly. The differences in equipment can be found in such things as manufacturer control devices (specialized control boards), safety devices (how many and what type), warranties, where it’s assembles (inside or outside the states), quality of the metals used in equipment construction, research and development on new and existing equipment, design: minimum airflow loss through the cabinet and noise reduction; quality parts; for those of you who are thinking in your head they’re all made from China, I would suggest you buy a cheap drill from The Home Depot (or local home center) and get the same drill from Fastenal and put it through rigorous testing. There is much more that goes into the manufacturer’s cost, not accounting for the contractor’s cost and yes I do agree a good part of it is name recognition but they have established themselves as an industry leader with a quality product. My last point is how shocked I am to the comparison made to Tempstar and Goodman. These are low quality products that almost anyone can walk in from off the street to buy.
Some of the answer on here dumb found me! As a contractor and someone who's been in the industry close to 15 years it is amazing we as hvac people do not recognize the difference between manufacturers'. No wonder our customers' are as confused as we are! Here we have a potential customer (for another contractor in CA.) asking a legitimate question concerning the various brands and all I here is it doesn't matter! Not to be harsh but how absurd is that? Is there a difference between a Lexus LS and a Ford Taurus? To answer your question, Yes! Trane is a good product to purchase. I agree wholeheartedly with the statements, "Finding a qualified contractor is just as important as the equipment!" To the point of finding parts for the system, it all depends on the supply houses in your area. In my area of the country there is no difference from manufacturer to manufacturer on availability of standard parts. Although Trane is not one of our main equipment lines I have always liked the design and performance of the system when installed correctly. The differences in equipment can be found in such things as manufacturer control devices (specialized control boards), safety devices (how many and what type), warranties, where it’s assembles (inside or outside the states), quality of the metals used in equipment construction, research and development on new and existing equipment, design: minimum airflow loss through the cabinet and noise reduction; quality parts; for those of you who are thinking in your head they’re all made from China, I would suggest you buy a cheap drill from The Home Depot (or local home center) and get the same drill from Fastenal and put it through rigorous testing. There is much more that goes into the manufacturer’s cost, not accounting for the contractor’s cost and yes I do agree a good part of it is name recognition but they have established themselves as an industry leader with a quality product. My last point is how shocked I am to the comparison made to Tempstar and Goodman. These are low quality products that almost anyone can walk in from off the street to buy.
Cheyleeshan, I highly recommend you not purchase a used appliance. Two of the more obvious reasons are; you’re not covered by the manufacturer's warranty or the contractors for that matter. First, it is impossible to tell if the thing has been operated under extreme conditions, i.e.… Just because the manufacturer designs a unit to operate above 200 degrees doesn’t mean you should. Second, you should be concerned as to whether the appliance was utilized in the way it was intended or designed to be used, i.e.… like a stove. A cooking stove is not intended to be used as a furnace in the winter time to warm a house. It will be put under extreme conditions if used in this manner. You may purchase the appliance now but find yourself putting out money for repairs on parts replacement due to stress or age. What about the internal chamber, is it rusty or decaying? Are you going to be guaranteed it will not develop a leak within the next two to three years? What about sediment buildup at the base of the water heater? This will create other problems such as, high energy bills (due to low water temp), not enough hot water (it acts as an insulator), reduced hot water capacity (it takes up space at the bottom of the tank), it becomes hard to service (inability to flush the tank) and it will cause your tank to develop leaks by inhibiting the transfer of heat and will eventually cause the tank to decay. If you are purchasing this from a contractor I would question his moral fortitude. This is never an option in our book as we never know what we’re giving our customers and we like to sleep at nights! A used television or refrigerator is different than a used water heater, furnace or any fuel burning appliance. If they are not operating correctly they can produce a high level of Carbon Monoxide Poison.
Christophersen Construction is right. You can no longer purchase refrigerant over the counter without the proper EPA certification because of its potential environmental impact if handled incorrectly. Most people assume that their appliance, i.e... Air-conditioner, car A/C or refrigerator, must be out of refrigerant if it's not cooling correctly. This is a myth! There are a number of reasons why any one of these appliances would not cool correctly. The more notable problem, a clogged condenser coil, was already stated in the previous response; defective defrost controller, defrost sensor or even the defrost coil could all lead to the box not cooling correctly. What about the evaporator or condenser fans, are they operative? If either one of them stops working the refrigerant cannot change state. Without being to technical, if it doesn't change state it will not produce any cooling. These are only a few of the many issues that would lead to a refrigerated system not being able to cool.
|
2242 mulford Ave,  Follow this merchant
|
|
|
Montegrillo Pizza & Restaurant
5825 Westfield Ave, Follow this merchant
|
|
|
7950 National Hwy, Follow this merchant
|
|
StansHVAC1 hasn't asked any questions. Ask a question today.
How can you increase more water pressure for your shower?
"It's really simple. You can increase the pressure of the shower head by decreasing the flow of water on its outlet side. If the current shower head has a 2.5 gallons per minute rating, you can lower it to a 2.2gpm (or lower) and increase its pressure through the shower head."
"It's hard to say without diagnosing it while it's running or looking at how it was installed. My first inclination is to say the problem quit possibly could be your draft system itself. Did the installer use the correct size? An excessive amount of bends, turns and linear feet of pipe will require you to up-size the diameter of the vent pipe. What type of exterior capping is being used outside? Is it a flapper type (not recommended)? Does it open and close? Where does it vent outside of the house? Some locations are prohibited by code to use as an exhaust outlet. These areas will cause wind turbulence and stop your system from venting; or they can cause a positive pressure in the vent tube, leading to appliance back-drafting."
StansHVAC1 has not yet clipped any coupons, sales, or promotions. Clip your own coupons.
Click here to ask questions and find answers to all of your fun-in-the-sun needs!
|
|
