How to Relax Natural Hair

Naturally curly hair can get tangled and be quite hard to manage. One method of managing this hair type is to apply a chemical relaxer to loosen the curl and tame the hair. Since chemicals are involved, there are certain precautions that need to be taken with the hair prior to relaxing it.

1. Assess the condition of the hair. If there are any split ends, these will need to be trimmed prior to relaxing. Hair with excessive shedding should not be relaxed under any circumstances. The hair must be strengthened for a period of 4-6 weeks before a relaxer can be applied.


2. Assess the condition of the scalp. Check the scalp for any abrasions or scratches. If any are present, the scalp will need to heal before the hair can be relaxed.


3. Prepare the hair in advance for the relaxer. The last shampooing needs to be at least 3-5 days before the relaxer is applied. This is to avoid scalp irritation and chemical burns. The type of shampoo used should be a clarifying shampoo. This will get rid of any product build-up in the hair. Clarifying shampoos are ones that contain ingredients such as sodium lauryl or laureth sulfate. After shampooing, use a deep conditioner on the hair and sit under the dryer for about 20 minutes before rinsing. 


4. Choose the type of relaxer needed. Relaxers come in three different strengths: mild, regular and super. Mild is typically used for color-treated hair and regular is for medium texture. Super is used for coarse, resistant hair.


5. Apply protectant to the hair. Before the relaxer is applied, a protective coating needs to be applied to the forehead, nape, and behind the ears. This can be olive oil, or petroleum jelly. 


6. Do a strand test on the hair. Before relaxing the whole head, remove a strand of hair from the head and apply the relaxer to it. Observe for at least 20 minutes. If the hair straightens, then it is okay to proceed with the relaxer process.  


7. Apply the relaxer. Part the hair into four equal sections and clip three sections out of the way. Start at the most resistant section of the hair. This will vary from person to person. Some people have hair that is resistant in the nape area and some are more resistant in the crown. Use the applicator brush and apply the relaxer 1/4 inch away from the scalp and all the way to the ends. 


8. Rinse with neutralizer shampoo. Once the hair has been relaxed, rinse the hair and wash out the remaining relaxer with neutralizer. Most neutralizers are color coded and will appear pink if there is still relaxer present in the hair. Rinse until the suds are white.