Installing or Repairing Traditional Tile Roofing
Traditional tile roofing is known for its longevity, compared with other types, like asphalt. Despite their cost, traditional clay tiles have a number of positives: they provide insulation, they are incredibly strong, and add visual appeal to a house. The two types of clay tiles are overlapping that do not interlock, they are nailed, and interlocking that have an intrusion for hooking to another tile.
Tools:
- Roofing support structure should be erected on building, including the laths, battens, rafters
- Tiles cutter
- Hammer
- Flashing
- Nails
- Flashing
- Gutters
- Roofing felt and shearing
- Decide on the type of tile to purchase as they come in varying shapes, based on two traditional shape variations: flat tiles and pan-tiles. How tiles are attached depends on the size, shape and style of the tile. Traditional tiles were laid with omission of wood sheathing and roofing felt. Though this allows for flexibility during repairs, the roofing would not be water tight.
- Make estimates for tiles needed to cover each section of the roof ('Field tile', number of 10 square inch flat section needed for a section of roof). Based on roof type and using the architect's design for detail and accuracy, the roofing contractor will be able to estimate number of tiles needed to cover entire roof, plus the man hours required to complete job. Make allowances for extra tiles for future repairs, as well as specialty tiles for the ridge, trim, eaves.
- Install gutters, valleys and flashings. For the expected durability of tile roofing, use good quality metal that is corrosion resistant.
- Start the laying phase. The first course is laid at the roof's lower edge at the eaves. The method used to lay and attach the tiles depends on: style of tiles, roof shape, local weather patterns, and local standards for erecting roofs. To ensure drainage of rain water into the center of the gutter, the position of the tile should be over-hanging the already installed gutter system by at least 4cm.
- Apply measurement for straightness, and then observe for any color variations from the ground. Make appropriate adjustments, otherwise the first course should now be permanently fitted.
- Lay the successive courses, lapping them over the courses below, working upwards on the roof to the ridge in a diagonal line. The support and fastening structure of the roof is one most likely to suffer damage and wear. The tiles may (rarely) get damaged from physical contact with heavy objects, otherwise they are most likely to wear out with time due to frost and weather. Repair requires replacement of the worn tiles.