How to Pick a Hair Relaxer

During the chemical relaxing procedure, the disulfide bonds are broken to alter the curls by loosening them. This elongates the cortex, stretching the original curl pattern, thus making this a permanent change. Choosing a relaxer depends on the degree of your curl pattern and your preference of how straight you would like your hair to be. The best way to pick a relaxer is to understand the different types available and how each one works.

• Research the difference between lye and no-lye relaxers. Both types of relaxers contain the active ingredient hydroxide to break down the hair bonds, but no-lye relaxers contain a weaker alkaline and are gentler on the scalp.


• Be aware that the main active ingredient in a lye relaxer is sodium hydroxide. Sodium hydroxide relaxers are very effective in breaking down the hair’s bonds, which is straights the hair quickly.  Because it processes quickly, you must apply the relaxer precisely and evenly in a timely manner. It must also be rinsed thoroughly with a neutralizing shampoo to stop the relaxing process and to avoid hair damage and scalp irritation.


• Remember that no lye types of relaxers are milder than lye-based relaxers. No-lye relaxers are normally used if you have dry, dull hair due to a build up of calcium or a very sensitive scalp. Some of the ingredients to look for if selecting a no-lye relaxer are lithium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, calcium hydroxide and guanidine hydroxide.


• Look for base and no-base formulas if you choose a lye relaxer. The base refers to the coating of petroleum jelly or oil that must be put onto the scalp prior to applying the relaxer to protect it from being irritated or burned by the lye formula. No base relaxers have a lower concentration of lye and a protective cream built within the relaxer, which can be applied directly to the hair without the need of the protective coating.


• Decide on which relaxer strength is the best for your hair type and current condition. The level of hydroxide used in relaxers determines the strength. The three levels of strength are mild, regular and super. Super strength contains a higher concentration of sodium hydroxide than a regular strength relaxer, which should be used of you have extremely curly, hard to straighten hair. Regular has more than mild and is used if your curl pattern is average, while  mild is the least amount of sodium. The goal is to avoid hair and scalp damage, while obtaining the desired results.